Slid the stepped opening of the trap over the sink's tailpiece. Slide the slip nut and slip-nut washer down and thread it onto the mouth of the tailpiece. Do not tighten the connection yet.

Plumbing Trap Definition

Measure the distance from the waste side of the trap to the waste line's slip-joint connection in the wall. Mark the waste arm with a marking pen and cut the straight end with a hacksaw. Leave at least 2 inches extra to fit into the waste line slip joint. Slide one slip nut onto the wast arm with the threads facing the flared lip at the degree curved end.

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Slide another slip nut onto the waste arm with the threads facing the wall. Slide a slip-nut washer onto the waste arm with the tapered side pointing to the wall. Slide the straight end of the waste arm into the slip-joint connection in the wall. Just remove the toilet and closet collar if you can, stuff the pipe with newspaper or burlap and pour concrete over the top. Wanting to hook up a single line to a sink and washing machine.

How to Hook Up a P-Trap to a Bath Sink | Home Guides | SF Gate

Was planning to have a P-Trap for both , the washing mashing is first in line and more then likely the most active of the two! Most codes read that each plumbing fixture shall be individually trapped so two traps is the right way to go. I do not believe if the fixtures are vented that you run the risk of siphoning a p-trap. Awesome thank you for the peace of mind. I have ran two P-Traps and so far so good as the washing machine line is also acting as a vent too…. I have read some materials that e. There are several difference actually.

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When using European faucet in the U. I installed a deeper kitchen sink and now my trap is about 2 inches lower that the outlet. What can I do to reconnect it. If I dropped a ring down the sink, how long will it stay in the P-trap? It happened a month or two ago. I have been using the sink, and figured it was gone. The truth is if the ring is heavy enough it will probably still be in the p-trap. It really all depends on the weight of the ring and the speed of the water going down the drain. Hello, I have been told that for a tub you need a specific tub Trap, is this true?

And if so what are they called? You need a waste and overflow drain with a p-trap. The p-trap is a common p-trap nothing special. I am going to renovate the bathroom, but prefer to not rework any of the waste lines since all of the fixtures are going back into their original locations. You really have to check with your municipality. My tub drains into an elbow then into the waste line. I smell sewer gas whenever the shower is used.

Several plumbers I have called in and they are adamant that the elbow joint is a trap, I know they are wrong, a downward bending Elbow can not be a trap. So the tub drains directly into a 90 and that connects to a branch waste line? I am installing a shower in a first floor location that is cantilevered out from the house. The floor joists are 2 x 10s and the joist cavity is insulated. Problem is the P-trap almost touches the bottom of the joist cavity and is likely to freeze being very close to the exterior of the house. If I install a trap inside the house proper a running trap freezing will not be an issue.

The run from shower drain to the trap would be about 4 feet.

How to Hook Up a P-Trap to a Bath Sink

I do not know why codes do not allow running traps for this kind of application. What kind of problems would a running trap, in this application, be likely to create? Running traps are illegal in most municipalities. If this were my house I would install the p-trap where it is supposed to be and run heat tracing tape around the p-trap. Can anybody give me an answer, the p trap in my basement utility rm has a p trap with a 3 slotted vertical spacer in it. What is the purpose? Can you please take a picture and send to skavanaugh1 gmail.

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A slotted tail piece or indirect funnel interceptor on a p trap was used for something like a drip condensate drain or similar device. It is normally open to be able to visualize that the drain is plugged or stopped up. There is a natural air gap when an indirect waste is installed. I am removing a bidet can just cap the hot and cold copper water lines and the drain which joins the toilet drain line leading to the basement. Please check your local codes for the most accurate information. If I want to permanently remove a tub, would I have to cap off the drain under the p trap….

How to install a new Sink Tailpiece and P Trap

Remove the tub, cut the waste off flush to the floor, stuff burlap or newspaper into the waste opening and fill with concrete for a few inches. Are there any kinds of bathtubs that have a p trap built in kinda like a toilet? Or do we need to put the tub on a platform highbenough for a p trap under it? Cutting the concrete is not an option. This is a great question because we have always done the latter. We put the bathtub on a platform so the p-trap fits underneath.

I did do a little research and to my knowledge there are still no manufacturers that make a bathtub with an integral trap. If you do run across one please leave a link in this thread. Check out this article about plumbing traps https: In just about half the cases, maybe 8 to 10 now over 3 years, we have found evidence that things being flushed that clogged the lines ie.

Your Answer

We have easily remedied the backup by snaking at the house trap just inside the foundation wall which is buried in the basement floor, but the cap is accessible. We have had this property for going on eighteen years now and are beginning to wonder, ether the trap has deteriorated or become full of sediment or otherwise compromised. We are still trying to find the right equipment to maybe camera or scope out the trap, as this seems to be the area that once snaked, quickly relieves the back up. Any experience or suggestions welcome. You most certainly need to camera the sewer line.

There is probably a dip or a separation in the piping that is causing things to hang up at the same spot. We use a Rigid Sea Snake. Thank you for the helpful info! We are in the middle of having a washer installed…the plumber installed most of the plumbing and left it over the weekend, to be finished later this week. Over the weekend, a distinct sewage smell and flow of air was coming out of the open standpipe and we noticed that no p-trap was installed at the bottom. Is this a legitimate practice, i.

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A washing machine standpipe should be trapped and be within 5ft of a vent. If not the line should be independently vented. That is a false statement. When the S trap is in place the water would back up into the dual sinks. I removed the S trap and plumbed directly into the waste pipe and never have a problem with water backing up.